Al Vasamuseet arrivammo di buon mattino nel pieno rispetto della tradizione dei viaggi di famiglia e della filosofia turistica di mio padre: se arrivi tardi sprechi un sacco di tempo in coda per i biglietti e vedi meno cose. Era una mattina di agosto di quindici anni fa, l’aria era ancora fresca e un sole poco convinto iniziava a intiepidire quell’angolo di Svezia. Avevamo macinato più di duemila chilometri per arrivare fino a lì. Da Torino a Stoccolma in automobile, un po’ per sfida, un po’ per evitare il patimento dell’aereo a chi in famiglia temeva di spiaccicarsi alla prima virata senza poter vedere un altro domani.
Lì, davanti a quel vistoso e strambo scrigno-hangar che al suo interno custodisce il Vasa, ricordo di aver osservato scettico i tre finti alberi di nave montati sul tetto per ricordare a tutti che lì dentro, sì proprio in quell’affare, viene custodita la nave più famosa di tutta la Scandinavia. I “vedrai, vedrai” dei miei mentre facevamo i biglietti avevano aumentato ulteriormente il mio scetticismo. Capirai, quattro pezzi di legno di una nave che manco riusciva a stare a galla. Poi entrai lì dentro e ci vollero pochi minuti per cambiare idea.
Del museo ricordo l’incredibile quantità di oggetti ritrovati a bordo, la storia dell’ambizioso recupero del vascello affondato rovinosamente durante il suo viaggio inaugurale e naturalmente l’enorme stanzone in cui viene conservato il Vasa. L’odore indescrivibile del legno rimasto a mollo per tre secoli e trattato per evitare che si spezzasse, dopo il recupero, le luci soffuse, l’umidità e il silenzio di chi gli passeggiava intorno, affascinato e sbalordito.
Il sole era già alto quando uscimmo dal museo, ma il cielo si era rannuvolato. Si era alzato un po’ di vento, guardai le acque lì davanti e cercai di immaginare la scena dell’affondamento del Vasa. A distanza di 15 anni ho raccontato quella storia sul Post, se avete un po’ di tempo libero leggetela. Se ne avete molto, andatelo a vedere. Anche in aereo.
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